Groshong's in Germany

More than a week after my family returned home to Oregon, I am finally sitting down to write about their visit! Whew! The last few weeks have been a whirlwind! Ah, but it was such a delight to have my family with me in Germany. I got some much needed hugs and snuggles from Bailey, had some good chats with my Mom (FaceTime is just not the same...), and enjoyed laughing and making jokes with my Dad.

I met the weary travelers at the train station in Nuremberg. We managed to find some Dr. Pepper for Bailey and some bratwurst for my Dad. But even with these incentives, I barely kept them awake that first afternoon. Jet lag is the worst, I completely understand.

So good to have these three with me! 

On our first full day together in Nuremberg, I took them on a walk around the former Nazi Party Rally Grounds. While most of the buildings are unfinished (or construction never started), we marveled at the huge scale of the grounds. The cloudy sky, dreary weather, and threatening rain befit the grey buildings and tainted history as well.

Outside the Congress Hall.

This was our first of many walks for the week... I don't think Bailey knew what she in for. Her initial energy and excitement may have dwindled a bit. But what's the best way to rejuvenate tired legs? Food! We had some traditional Nuremberg sausages and warm potato salad for lunch. After one bite Bailey remarked, "Ah! Now this is real food!" I think she had been a bit confused with the meat, cheese, and bread at the breakfast buffet that morning. Where were the Froot Loops?! Fortunately, she was quite pleased with our lunch choice.

We snapped some photos at the Nuremberg Castle, which has a great view of the city, a sea of red rooftops. Even though most of the castle was destroyed during WWII and rebuilt, it was still fascinating to learn about the LONG history this castle has in Bavaria (we're talking the 1100's here).

My cute sister is so photogenic!!

My visitors dropped like flies for a nap that afternoon. I blame jet lag, but it may have also been the delicious pastries we indulged in... Jet lag plus sugar low is a deadly combination. You should know as well that it became a running joke to notice how many bakeries and pastry shops there are in Germany. Carbs on every corner! I'm certainly not complaining!

And then it was off to Munich! We decided we were the tornado family getting on and off trains. Four clueless people with too many bags who don't speak a lick of German... we felt bad for the poor girl who had to share a compartment with us. I was grateful for the travel buddies though. I did have to adjust a bit to having three other people with me, but it was so fun to share the new sights and experiences with the people I love most.

Our first day in Munich we took a day trip to visit two castles in the area, both built by Ludwig II of Bavaria. The first castle, Linderhof, was a small hunting estate tucked into the Bavarian Alps. We stepped out of the bus into a winter wonderland! The inside of the castle was excessively ornate and featured a table that lowered down to the kitchen so that Ludwig could eat completely alone, without even an interruption from a servant.

The second castle we visited, Neuschwanstein, was right out of a fairy tale. In fact, this castle was the inspiration for Disneyland's Sleeping Beauty Castle! We got to go inside, but had to climb a lot of stairs in the process. Bailey looked up at the huge spiral staircase and said with a grin and a hint of sass, "Really!?" This then became her mantra for every long walk or stair climb for the rest of the week.

The view from Neuschwanstein. Ludwig had to outdo his father's castle,
the "little" yellow one on the right.

Day two in Munich was one for the books. We went to BMW Welt! We sat in all the nice cars and checked out all the motorcycles on display. I would have totally come here by myself, but it was 10 times better with my Dad's commentary on all the neat features in different vehicles and technological developments that have occurred over the years. He enjoyed the castle tours, sure, but he had a whole different level of excitement at this place. :) But seeing the finished products wasn't all we did... we got to take a 2 hour tour of the manufacturing plant!! The efficiency, the quick tooling changes, the quality checks, the robots! In the body shop alone, there are over 800 robots, making it 99% automated. It was incredible! By far the most impressive manufacturing facility I've visited. This engineer was pretty gleeful.

However, I think the highlight of the day was the special experience that made Bailey gleeful. There was a 1959 Isetta on display on the exhibition floor. If you don't have a clue what this looks like, it's Urkel's car from the show "Family Matters." Remember that show!? Anyway, we noticed a clean cut German man in a suit starting it up. We were content to watch him drive the little car around the show room. But then, guess who got a ride in the cute, blue, bubble car? Check it out!

We topped off the day with a walk around the Olympic Grounds from the 1972 Munich Olympics. Right as I commented how cool it would be to see the swimming pool we saw the Schwimmhalle ahead! It was awesome. Just imagine the energy in the place with all the best athletes in the world walking the grounds and making history in beautiful facilities. And how cool would it be to live in a city that hosted the olympics? Kids get to take swimming lessons in a state-of-the art pool where olympic athletes once raced. That's a few steps up from the old Oregon City Pool where I lifeguarded, taught swimming lessons, and competed... Anyway, we got some swim caps from the small shop at the pool. Best souvenir ever!

Despite some cold weather, we saw a lot more sights in Munich. My Dad aptly commented, "There's something to take a picture of on every corner of this city". Lots of churches, cool old buildings, palaces. Oh and we ate plenty of delicious food. Probably enough sausages to last a lifetime.

 

Before leaving Munich, we made it out to Dachau Concentration Camp. A heavy and intense visit to be sure. Bailey certainly sensed the seriousness of the place and didn't like talking about it much afterward. I have read so many books about WWII and the atrocities that took place. But this visit made those stories and images real in a whole different way. Conversely though, the particular day we visited, the weather was eerily pleasant. The sun was shining and the birds were chirping, an atmosphere which contrasted sharply with what we were learning about the place. This dichotomy was difficult to comprehend.

Our time in Munich had come to an end and we made our way to Heidelberg. (Again, we were the tornado family on the train.) Apparently this is the town all U.S. tourists visit. In the words of one German we talked to "there's just some ruins of a castle there." Well, we don't get to see castle ruins everyday in the Oregon! Heidelberg proved to be a quaint and relaxing town. Just what we needed at the end of our trip.

At the castle! 

Beautiful grounds overlooking the river. 

Besides the castle visit, the other highlight of Heidelberg was the Philosopher's Way. This is a unique walk that first takes you up the hillside on a cobblestone path with stone walls on either side, then meanders along above the river with beautiful views of the city and the castle. Bailey dragged her feet a bit and about halfway through my Dad said, "I'm about done philosophizing." But my Mom and I totally loved it.

I think she would have preferred riding the Isetta up the hill.

Heidelberg and the Neckar River

This was really the vacation of a lifetime for our family. And I am so thankful I got to share a bit of my adventure. I needed an interruption in my usual aloneness. But to be perfectly honest, traveling with four people is A LOT more complicated than going solo. :)

It was certainly hard to say goodbye. Bailey was convinced I needed a travel buddy and that she would be willing to take on that role. But alas, we had to part ways. I am so grateful for the memories we made together!!

Great Expectations

When I first chose the countries I would visit for this project, I wanted a good variety. I looked for places that would provide exposure to different cultures, different political systems, different attitudes. Well, I don't know that I could have picked three countries as different as Japan, Jordan, and Germany. Project-wise, Germany has been fascinating so far. But as you might imagine it's been quite different from my previous destinations.

One of the first things I did here in Nuremberg was visit the Down Syndrome Info Center. And it has proved to be the largest, most extensive Down Syndrome organization I have visited thus far. I received a very warm welcome, as I have in every country, and was introduced to all the services the info center provides. The organization started about 25 years ago and offers information and services for people with Down Syndrome of all ages. For example, they have a sort of clinic about once a month where parents of babies with Down Syndrome can bring their child and talk to all sorts of specialists under one roof. They meet with occupational therapists and doctors, talk with speech therapists, and get advice from other parents. What a great support system! Then, for adults with Down Syndrome, the organization offers numerous classes through a program called DS Akademie. These classes are a great way for people to interact and continue learning after they've finished school.

I was able to attend a fantastic weekly yoga class offered through DS Akademie. I'm not too experienced with yoga, so a class with adults with special needs is really right at my level. It was extremely well structured for people with Down Syndrome. The teacher took time at the beginning of the class to discuss concentration and other important aspects of yoga. There was a lot of repetition throughout the class, which is great to ingrain the moves. And rather than only ending the class with relaxation, these activities were interspersed throughout the class. They were especially welcome after the difficult poses... I really should work on my flexibility.

Also offered through the DS Akademie was an afternoon seminar: Sonne, Mond, und Sterne (Sun, Moon, and Stars). A parent of a boy with Down Syndrome volunteered his time and expertise in astronomy for this seminar. 11 students attended this seminar and while there were certainly some yawns throughout, I was sincerely impressed with their engagement and participation in the lecture. I had to laugh, before the seminar began, the teacher asked them if anyone could speak English. Most everyone responded, "Yes!" This is especially amusing because if you were to ask Bailey if she speaks Spanish, she would certainly respond, "Si!" Too cute.

The purpose of these seminars is really to provide further learning opportunities. Similar to the United States, kids with special needs in Germany are taught some basic academics, but academic lessons quickly give way to life skills lessons in many cases. There is no reason academic lessons should stop. Not only was the content of the Sun, Moon, and Stars seminar interesting and appropriate for the audience, it was a great opportunity for the students to practice good classroom behavior, interact with their peers, and participate in discussions.

Another thing I was impressed with is the publication that the Down Syndrome info center sends out three times a year. It is a very well-done magazine that goes to people all over the world. There are a variety of articles from inspiring personal stories to informative medical news on many different topics. I got to spend some time packing the magazines to be sent out with other loyal volunteers, mostly mothers of kids with Down Syndrome. Also helping out was a young woman with Down Syndrome named, Youstina. She works full time at the info center helping out in a number of different capacities. After my first visit to the info center, I got to ride the train back home with Youstina. She's taking an English class so we chit chatted about our siblings and Lady Gaga. What fun!

Another sweet new friend, Youstina.

So far, I have noticed that there are high expectations for people with special needs in Germany. In Japan and Jordan, I certainly met individuals who had high expectations for their children or even for the special needs community as a whole. But in Germany, high expectations are more widespread, from parents to community members to the government. For example, the seminar I attended through DS Akademie was held on a Saturday because it is expected that adults with disabilities will have a full time job during the week. Likewise, I have heard of more people with special needs who live on their own or in a group home than anywhere I've been so far. These opportunities are made possible because of high expectations for people with disabilities and these expectations will continue to translate into forward progress.

One last thing, I want to share a video with those of you interested. This past December, some people put together a campaign for the International Day of Persons with Disabilities that featured disabled mannequins modeling the latest fashions in a storefront in Zurich, Switzerland (a place known for its upscale shopping district). A friend posted it on Facebook just after I returned from a quick weekend trip to Zurich! The video is awesome, check it out here.

First Impressions

As some of you know and I mentioned briefly in one of my last posts, I was a bit of a mess when I left Jordan. I was a big ball of anxiety my last week there in anticipation of uprooting myself once again. I can't tell you why. I wasn't this nervous when I went to Jordan (although that would have made more sense). I worried about my luggage arriving with me and finding the hostel and securing a more permanent place to stay... I even found myself lamenting the fact that I would have to figure out trains and subways again. "But taxis are just so easy," I whined. Wait, what did I just say?? Yep, I was a mess. But this was especially difficult because I had to leave a place I really loved. Every day, every little interaction, every conversation gave me a small glimpse into the country and the complexities of the Middle East. It was fascinating and I didn't feel like I was done learning.

But alas, my visa was about to expire, I had a plane ticket, and I had to follow through with my plan to travel to Germany. But as you can imagine. I had NOTHING to worry about. Everything went incredibly smooth upon arrival. I figured out the subway system, found my hostel, and ended up at a lovely cafe for some coffee and a pastry. After two hours, I liked Europe already.

This was the first picture I took after emerging form the subway,
the quaint little square in Nuremberg.

I am finding it very refreshing to be in a smaller city. Nuremberg (population 500,000) is noticeably smaller than Amman (population 2 million), and well everything is small compared to Tokyo. Nuremberg doesn't feel crowded or chaotic at all. And I have to say that, as much as I miss Jordan, the hostel I stayed in when I first arrived in Germany was nicer than my apartment in Jordan. And the shower...utterly luxurious. Good indoor heating is also nice. Oh and no stares or catcalls from men! A definite positive! In fact, I am quite a bit more anonymous here in Germany. For the first time in about six months, I don't look foreign. Of course, this does mean people start talking to me in German, assuming I understand...

So, just like Jordan was the opposite of Japan, Germany is equally quite different from Jordan. No honking horns, no constant cigarette smoke, and instead of the prayer call echoing through the city it's the sound of church bells.

St. Lorenzkirche

St. Lorenzkirche

The view from my hostel, up on a hill.

Can't get enough of the cobblestone. This is the square in Lauf.

I love my walks along the Pegnitz River. 

I've been at this Watson Adventure for about six months now. If you're thinking that the new experiences might be dwindling, well you couldn't be more wrong. Sure, not all new experiences are as dramatic as riding in a taxi through the chaotic streets of Amman... No, this week I had a much less thrilling, but nonetheless amusing new experience that I thought I would share.

I decided to treat myself and have breakfast at cafe that I had been wanting to try. They didn't have an English menu so I wasn't sure what all I ordered, but the waitress brought me a nice selection of breads and jams and a cup of coffee. Perfect! I settled down to people watch and sip my coffee when the waitress brought me one more thing... a nice soft boiled egg in a cute little cup. At that moment, I literally chuckled out loud. An egg served like this was something I'd only see in movies in the vain of Pride and Prejudice. I had absolutely no idea how to eat such a thing! It just sat there in front of me, a new experience I was not anticipating for my morning. So, I did what any person with a data plan on their cell phone would do and I googled it. Yep, right there in the cafe I googled "how to eat a soft boiled egg." I read a few marginally helpful articles, looked at some pictures, and decided to just go for it. I lightly cracked the egg on the top with my spoon, definitely something I saw in a movie, and then just ended up peeling the shell halfway down. So far so good, but who knows if those around me were scoffing at my poor etiquette. It seemed ready to eat! So I took my spoon and scooped off the top, but I wasn't expecting the soft boiled egg to be so...soft. My spoonful of egg white slide right off my spoon onto the table and the yolk oozed down the side of the still intact part of the egg shell. Again, I couldn't help but smile to myself. I recovered from the spill and managed to eat what remained. It was delicious! But there you have it, proof that the new experiences just keep coming in all shapes and sizes. :)

Bringing in the New Year

Before January ends, I want to write briefly about the unforgettable New Year I had back in Jordan. I promise my next post will be about Germany, but my last couple weeks in Jordan were a whirlwind of last minute sightseeing, project work, and emotions. I have decompressed since and would love to share this last Middle East adventure!

On New Year's Eve, a good friend and I took the bus from Amman to Aqaba, a coastal city in Southern Jordan on the Red Sea. Aqaba (and the Red Sea in general) is known for being a great snorkeling and diving site. Upon arrival, Catriona and I immediately rented snorkel gear and wetsuits and headed for the water. Like everything else in Jordan, this experience totally exceeded my expectations! No more than 10 meters from the beach, I felt like I was transported into Finding Nemo! The fish were exquisite, the plant life was unbelievable. It was just incredible.

While we could have explored for hours, it was a bit chilly. We warmed up and walked along the beach, watching the sunset and marveling at the fact that we could see Israel and Egypt across the water. Even more interesting was the signpost near our hostel that read "10km to Saudi Arabia". A nice little reminder of where I was in the world.

That night, we ate the most delicious fresh, grilled fish ever. I hadn't had fish since Japan and this was a welcome change from lentils and pita bread. I think the only thing Catriona and I could talk about during dinner was how good the fish was. Ok, now my mouth is watering, excuse me while I go get a snack... :)

The next day (New Year's Day), my travel buddy had to head back to Amman. But I traveled to Wadi Rum for a one day/one night tour of the desert. A whole group of us bobbed around in the back of jeeps and pickups as our Bedouin guides showed us the sights. Here are some of the highlights:

Met this guy when I first arrived.

This was the first of many rock scrambles/ hikes/ climbs for the day, to what used to be a spring. I didn't see any water, but was greeted instead by some goats!

This was my ride for the day. The sun was out and it warmed my cold bones. 

Next, we went to this HUGE sand dune. One of the guides gave me his board...I attempting to stay standing, but it was much more fun to just sit and slide down. Also, I unknowingly brought a bunch of red sand with me to Germany. I am still dumping it out of my shoes and finding it in my bag. Oops.

Here are some ancient camel hieroglyphs! I'm only partially convinced that these are ancient... Come on, how easy would it be for people to just add some nice carvings into the rock...? Just kidding. I'm sure they're legit. ;)

Our lunch spot. The most "in the middle of nowhere" I think I've ever been. We gathered some kindling for a small fire so we could have hot tea. I was glad I got to have more Bedouin whiskey before I left Jordan.

The afternoon was filled with more hiking, the supposed site of Lawrence's house (Lawrence of Arabia), interesting trees, and a climb up to a rock bridge that ensured I exceeded my adrenaline limit for the day.

Yep, that's me up there on the bridge... Now, I'm not afraid of heights, but I am quite cautious. I was acutely aware of the fact that one wrong move of my weary legs could be detrimental... Let's just say I was glad to be back solidly on the ground after this climb. This whole day also made think about how we really can't do stuff like this in the U.S. Tour companies or parks would be way to concerned about liability issues. You'd have to sign some kind of extensive waiver and follow all the rules. My tour guide/jeep driver, Ahmad, didn't seem to concerned about safety, just that we have a good time.

We watched the sunset, with more hot tea, before heading back to the camp for a delicious meal and chatting around the fire. When I got up from the fire to head to bed, I happened to look up at the sky. What I saw literally took my breath away. I have NEVER in my life seen so many stars. Despite the cold, I wandered a little way outside the camp in the pitch dark, laid down with a rock as a pillow, and just took it all in. I had spent the day marveling at God's creation, but being underneath that blanket of stars, I couldn't help but pray and sing praises to Him.

I can understand how the Israelites might have complained a bit after 40 years of wandering around in the desert. But you know what, I would quite like to wander around Wadi Rum for a few weeks, eating manna and exploring the vastness. One day just wasn't enough. 

Three Little Sheep and Other Tidbits

The holidays were a rough time. I found it was a time when I wanted/needed to talk to people from home most, but those people were busy traveling home or waist-deep in holiday preparations. I did end up having a fabulous Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with lots of really wonderful people, but something else that cheered me up significantly was a visit to the Center of Hope for Special Education. 

Just before Christmas, a group of young adults with special needs at this organization put on a small production of the Christmas story. My friend, Veronika, and I had the extreme privilege of watching a rehearsal of the play a few days before all the family, friends, and members of the community were invited to watch. The play was narrated by one of the teachers, but the students did an excellent job repeating their lines, entering at the designated time, and knowing their places throughout the performance. It was awesome!

I think my favorite part was the three little sheep who accompanied the shepherds to go see baby Jesus. And I also enjoyed the star that the wise men followed. :)

Mary and Joseph awaiting their visitors.

Three sheep.

Can't miss the star!

Everyone has arrived!

This organization is a kind of school for young adults with intellectual disabilities and it serves a low income part of Amman. They provide academic lessons as well as some life skills training. I was so impressed with how involved each student was in the play and the rest of the daily activities. The atmosphere was welcoming and calm and each student worked diligently.

I was also impressed with some of the things the organization has created themselves to promote learning. Take this cool map of Jordan for instance:

Different cities and points of interest have a corresponding LED light on the map. Students can press one of the buttons on the red panel on the right and see it light up on the map. Cool! (Or maybe I just really like maps...) It's this kind of creativity that I like to see when I visit different places.

There are a few other tidbits of information I want to share about the portrait of disability provisions in Jordan:

As for the policy side of things, I learned that government involvement is quite complex. There are four main government entities that have some sort of influence on the special needs community: Ministry of Social Development, Ministry of Education, Ministry of Health, and the Higher Council for Person's with Disabilities. While there are sufficient laws and policies in place, there doesn't seem to be much implementation oversight and there is very little standard procedure for dealing with particular issues. I heard numerous stories about well-meaning people sent on a wild goose chase to various ministries in order to get the right information or paperwork filled out. Frustrating, to say the least.

Interestingly, the Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA), which has a strong presence in Jordan, is currently working with the government and other organizations to make improvements. JICA regularly sponsors trips for Jordanian individuals working in the special needs community to learn about how things are done in Japan. (At a parent support meeting I attended in Jordan, I heard from a woman who had just returned from a trip to Japan. I was pleasantly surprised to hear that her generalizations about the situation in Japan were similar to my own!) In addition, JICA is sending an individual to work in the Ministry of Labor this year. Her goal is to help integrate people with special needs into the work force. While I do admire this goal, getting another government ministry involved will certainly add complexity.

Finally, I want to comment on the wide use of social media in Jordan. I found that most communication happens through social media. Nearly every organization I visited has a Facebook page, often their only web presence (no accompanying website). Parents and other inquirers use this as the main way to contact the Jordan Down Syndrome Society, for example. Also, the parent of a child with Autism started the Twitter account AutismJO, which now has more than 500 followers. For people in Jordan, social media is helping organizations be part of the community at home and around the globe as pictures are shared and connections are made.

Well, there is lots more to tell, so feel free to ask me about it sometime! I certainly can't write everything here, but I look forward to sharing more with interested people in the future!

Facebook Posts from Jordan

Since my Facebook posts from Japan were so popular, I thought I had better compile a list for Jordan as well. Here's a glimpse into my everyday life and some random thoughts from the last three months!

1. Emirates is my new favorite airline. I highly recommend it.

2. Comment from my mom as I flew red-eye from Tokyo to Amman: "We get two sleeps before you even get one." Time change is weird.

3. I am finding it difficult to refrain from doing the peace sign in pictures now...

4. I thought I was getting more confident and becoming a real traveler, but then I met some people at the hostel in Jordan... I'm still a newbie for sure. There are some intense travelers out there.

5. I'm juggling like 6 different time zones at this point. I feel so smart and well-connected.

6. The Abdali Flea Market is a sensory overload and a gold mine for cheap clothes. I love it!

7. How the first Watson Fellows survived without google maps is a mystery to me. Even in a country where addresses are a new phenomenon, google maps is invaluable.

8. May have just purchased an album of 55 Arabic Pop Hits. Get ready friends, DJ Hannah has all kinds of new material.

9. One of my favorite things to do in a new country is figure out my go-to snack foods.

10. Love me a Jordanian sunset. #palmtreesillouette

11. Hannah's oatmeal Japanese style: with milk and bananas. Hannah's oatmeal Jordan style: with yogurt and honey.

12. Walked to the store to buy pita bread and hummus, only to hear Call Me Maybe playing over the loudspeaker in the store. Kinda killed my Middle East vibe.

13. One stop shopping for all your smoking needs.

14. Totally startled when a little kid shot off a pop gun as I walked past. He laughed at me. haha

15. Snacks for the bus ride home from Petra. These'll go straight to my hips.

16. A taxi driver insisted that at 22 I should be married with two babies. Guess I'm a bit behind...

17. Amman is a MESS before and after a futbol match. The streets are chaos with honking cars decked out in Jordanian flags sitting in stalled traffic. Kids are let out early from school in anticipation of the traffic. And I could basically watch the entire game on my walk home going past all the packed out cafes with big screen TVs.

18. Saw Hunger games with these lovely ladies!! Complete with Arabic and French subtitles.

19. There is a huge difference in street harassment when I walk with a guy than when I walk alone or with another girl.

20. Plastic palm tree. At least it doesn't need water?

21. I don't remember the last time I had hot chocolate. Cafe Strada for the win.

22. I actually used a cross walk today. That's a first.

23. Saw sowers sowing seeds!

24. I bought apples from Washington! They traveled a long way!

25. In a taxi on my way home one evening, stopped at a light and the driver starts honking... This is typical, but the light is clearly red so I was confused. Then a man appeared at the driver's window selling a hot cup of coffee! Quite the entrepreneur on these cold winter nights!

26. Pita bread, figs, bell peppers, Arabic coffee, falafel, hummus. These are a few of my favorite things!

27. Not a big fan of tile floors. My feet are cold.

28. After much pondering, I do think I prefer the cold here in Jordan to the heat and humidity in Japan.

29. I need a snuggie.

30. Any guess on what this is? There used to be two of them sitting on the street too... #disappearingact #whatisit #hopeitdoesntexplode

31. Best Christmas tree ever. With real candles too!

32. I was convinced there were ice cream trucks all over the city because I always heard these loud jingles coming from trucks on the street. Come to find out... gas can delivery isn't exactly ice cream...

33. Practicing patience and pomelo peeling.

34. So thankful for Facetime! I love my family.

To be honest, while I am certainly excited to see what adventures lie ahead for me in Germany, I am quite sad to leave Jordan. It has been an amazing three months and the country totally exceeded my expectations. I have met so many wonderful people here and the sightseeing was incredible. Jordan, I hope to see you again someday!!